Rancho Mirage: Where to Stay, Eat and Go

Rancho Mirage sits between Palm Desert and Cathedral City, and its whole character comes from the fact that it was zoned for country clubs rather than a downtown. There is no main street here — the city is a series of gated communities, resorts and one retail complex — which is either the appeal or the problem depending on the trip.

Where to stay

The Ritz-Carlton is up on the Santa Rosa ridge, 650 feet above the valley floor, with the best hotel view in Greater Palm Springs and a spa to match. The Westin Rancho Mirage and Omni Rancho Las Palmas are the family and golf options: multiple pools, waterslides, golf on site, and enough space that a group can spread out. All three carry resort fees and paid parking, and all three are five to fifteen minutes from Palm Desert's El Paseo.

What to do

Sunnylands is the reason to come. The Annenberg estate hosted Nixon, Reagan and Obama, and its midcentury house tours sell out — tickets release on a rolling 15-day window and go within minutes. The free option is the Center and Gardens, nine acres of desert planting with walking paths, open Wednesday to Sunday. The Rancho Mirage Library and Observatory runs public viewing nights on a 2,000-pound telescope that are among the best free evenings in the valley.

Where to eat

Catalan Mediterranean is the long-running fine-dining room locals book for anniversaries. Las Casuelas Nuevas is the big, reliable Mexican restaurant with a fountain courtyard, part of the same family that runs the Palm Springs original. State Fare Bar and Kitchen, at the Westin, is the casual patio option that works for a late lunch after golf.

Practical notes

Rancho Mirage is spread out and essentially undrivable without a car. Highway 111 runs the length of the city and moves quickly outside season. Nights are quiet: apart from The River and the casino, most of the city is asleep by ten.